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2015-02-26 MOSFET Joule Thief, Sort Of

As the month of February fades away into March, a Google Alert (see note) brought me an actual Joule Thief, sort of.  It looks to me more like a switch mode power supply, with its opto coupler.  That, to me, seemed puzzling since the primary and secondary share the same common ground.

I haven’t done any perusing of data sheets to find out if this circuit will work from 2.2 V down to 0.6 volt, as shown. What concerns me is that in order to get that low a supply voltage, it requires special and difficult to obtain components, especially the FETs.

The design was sent in to EDN by a reader. That’s one reason to verify its legitimacy.

Note: lately the Google Alerts have seldom brought me anything worthwhile, and on a number of occasions have directed me to sites that drop very nasty adware on to my PC which is difficult to remove. For these reasons I’ve been tempted to remove the alerts. But once in awhile it renews my enthusiasm by coming up with something worthwhile.

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2015-02-22 Link To Osram Smart Light

QS sent this link to me about Osram’s smart LED light called Lightify.

I went and browsed the shelves at Fry’s Electronics. They have the dimmer sockets and remotes on the shelf that use Sky Link.

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2015-02-17 Doule Thief NPN PNP

I was looking at two schematics online, one a NPN Joule Thief, the other a PNP Joule Thief. The gears started turning and I thought that I could combine them into one Joule Thief. At first I thought dual Joule Thief, but combined it, too, into Doule Thief. Why not…

One may ask why do this. Often JTs are connected to sources of AC such as a stepper motor. This is usually done by rectifying the AC to DC. But at low voltages the rectifiers waste a substantial part of the power. Making the circuit accept both polarities eliminates the rectifiers.

Several Circuits

There are several ways to get the job done. I’d say the most obvious way is to connect two separate JTs in parallel, one NPN, the other PNP. Each lights up on each half of the AC cycle.

But the coil and resistor are not polarized so it would be simpler if they could be used for both positive and negative parts of the AC cycle.

I could add a second JT to the same coil and add another resistor, to light the LED on the other half of the AC cycle.

But thinking about it, a second JT doesn’t have to be PNP; it could be NPN with the polarity reversed.

Essentially the transistors and LEDs are paralled (see note), so they can handle either polarity. But then both transistors would have to be the same – NPN or PNP. Can I do this? Suddenly I’m having doubts.

In order for the PNP to work, the base bias needs to be changed from one polarity to the opposite. I would have to use diodes to steer the bias to the base. I’m going to have to draw a schematic or two to get something that looks workable.

Devil In The Details

What I see is the circuit will obviously need a DPDT switch to switch the polarity of the battery. If I add a third pole to the switch, I can then use it to switch the polarity of the base bias (see schematic). Switching the base lead causes the wrong polarity transistor to have just the emitter and collector connected, which is the same as putting two diodes in series with their anodes or cathodes connected to each other. This prevents current flow in either direction, essentially an open circuit.

Instead, if I leave all the leads of both transistors connected in parallel, the emitter to base junction would conduct when reverse biased. Or would it? I’m going to have to experiment with this to see what happens.

Luckily I bought several of the 3PDT switches from Electronic Goldmine recently. I’m all set, with all the hardware. Need some bench time.

Note: Paralleling two LEDs ‘antiparallel’ is connecting them anode to cathode. This also applies to transistors and other polarized devices.

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2015-02-12 Hand Pressing LED Flashlight

A new store opened up a few weeks ago in my neighborhood.  It’s called Daiso and is much like a dollar store except (unless otherwise marked) everything is $1.50.  It helps if you can read Japanese because many of the items are labeled in Japanese.

I bought a ‘Hand Pressing Flashlight’ with 2 white LEDS, and I was surprised at how well it worked.  And I can’t complain about the price. I squeezed the handle for a few tens of seconds and it charged up enough to run the LEDs for a few tens of seconds.

I can see through the translucent blue shell and I see a motor (actually a generator) and a curved plastic rack of gear teeth.  A squeeze spins the motor and it makes a lot of noise when squeezed.  My guess is the energy is stored in a battery because the LEDs stay on for so long.  If it was a supercap, they would stay bright for only a few seconds.

I bought a “shake” flashlight years ago and it was a big mistake. The shaking gave off light as long as it was shaking, but was very dim when it was still. It performed so poorly that I thought that all hand powered lights would be worthless.

This one is much, much better and a tenth of the price. I have a concern that the plastic gears may fail after some use, but at that price a spare or two for backup is a good idea. If this light uses batteries, it would be best to charge them periodically to keep the batteries from going bad. I think I’m going to buy a few more and take one apart to see what’s inside.

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2015-02-06 Ravpower Power Bank Charger

I ordered five of the Ravpower RP-PB08 portable chargers and after I got them and showed them to my friends, they suddenly remarked that they needed one of them.  So my five have suddenly dwindled to just a few left and those may disappear, too.

These are rated at 3200 mAh.  That’s just a bit more than the 2800 mAh rating of my cell phone battery, so I may not get a full recharge out of this charger.  But it does allow a cell phone that’s running low to get a lot more talk time or do a lot more online before having to shut down.

The nice thing about this recharger is the size is small and easily fits in your pocket. Also the end has a decent LED flashlight that puts out plenty of light. It has high, low, and flash modes.

The other end has the button for the light. Besides the input and output jacks it has a 3 color LED that is green for full charge, blue for half charge and red for low charge.

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2015-02-05 Boiler Room Calls Selling Solar Panels

I have been getting these boiler room calls so often that I’ve begun to remember the numbers and just don’t answer them.  But the robocall voice still leaves a voice mail, which wastes my time and minutes.

I have my phone numbers on the Do Not Call List, so all their calls are illegal.  I have reported the numbers dozens of times to donotcall.gov but it never helps.  The CallerID shows fake local numbers that are disconnected.

It’s something about the ARRA act that was passed by congress.  This allows the contractor to collect a rebate from the gov’t.

I have dealt with these crooks before, when I didn’t have CallerID and I didn’t know who was calling.  They talk their spiel and then ask you how much your electric bill is.  If you tell them anything less than $150, they say you’re not a candidate and hang up. Apparently the rebate applies to those who have a large enough bill to qualify.

These nasty people are from a local solar contractor that is breaking the law thousands of times per day.  The fine for each illegal call is $500, but since they willfully and knowingly break the law, the fine is tripled to $1500.  So these crooks may owe fines in the millions of dollars per day. 

I (and everyone else) hope the gov’t hunts them down and busts them so they will never make another call. But I wouldn’t bet on that happening. 🙁

Update – I talked to one neighbor and he said that the solar panels he got are not his, they are owned by the company. I’ll have to ask him what the arrangements are.

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2015-02-04 Designing With LEDs Newsletter

I got an email from Designing With LEDs about replacing fluorescent tube fixtures with regular light fixtures and using LED lights. I have an old fluorescent tube fixture hanging from chains in my garage and I hadn’t considered replacing it because it gets used so little. It plugs into a socket so replacing it is really simple.

In the above email she talks about Hampton Bay two socket fixtures. I have similar fixtures for my ceiling lights, except the previous resident went cheap and got fixtures with only one socket. That’s okay; the LED lights I’m using are bright enough that one does an adequate job. Besides I think that most of the room light should come from a task light close to the occupant.

This leads me into another rant about my electric bill and the boiler room callers trying to sell solar systems. Much more on this in my next blog.

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2015-02-03 USD5096F 35Amp Schottky Diode

Goldmine Electronics had a sale on USD5096F 35 Volt, 35Amp Schottky diodes (they’re now sold out), so I bought a handful. 

These are the old style all metal stud mount package, and come without any mounting hardware.  The stud is 1/4 x 28 threads, so I had to order some 1/4 x 28 TPI nuts for them (standard 1/4″ nuts are 24 threads per inch).  If I have to mount them on a heat sink that is not isolated, then I will need a mounting kit with the mica washers, sleeve, metal washers, and solder lug.

The cathode is the stud. These Schottky diodes will conduct several amps with only a few tenths of a volt forward voltage drop. They should be ideal for rectifying low voltages, or for a blocking diode for a solar panel.

I measured one with a cheap DMM and saw they have quite a bit of reverse leakage. But this is normal for a high current Schottky diode, which is half of a normal diode.

The big metal package with the pigtail and lug looks very impressive when bolted to a heat sink. It’s not the latest high tech MOSFET active rectifier that’s used in high efficiency circuits today, but it’s much more efficient than a regular diode. See more information in the Wikipedia article.

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2015-01-31 PCs And People

I’ve been seeing a lot of systems with a small 64 GB SSD, some also have a HDD.  Apparently the SSD’s much lower power allows the maker to install a smaller battery, saving money.

The bigger 256 GB SSDs seem to cause the price of laptops to go up by a few hundred or more, much more than the retail cost of the SSD. Seems like the consumer gets cut with a double edged sword: once on the SSD’s higher cost and again on the lower capacity battery. And they give you the more expensive SSD, but they then short you on much less storage (128 GB instead of 500GB or more).

But what really bugs me is that the PC marketers really don’t seem to know what people want (except Dell Alienware, which is really expensive).  It’s like they put together PCs with whatever extra components they have in stock.

In conclusion, anyone buying a new PC should know what they want before
they shop around.  And stick to your needs and don’t buy something because it’s a good deal.

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2015-01-28 LED Vs Incandescent Lights

I am listening to this program about energy efficiency on PBS.  They stated that in terms of light to heat ratio, the incandescent light produces 5% light and 95% heat, and a LED light produces 25% light and 75% heat.

My observation is that despite the LED light’s 5 times higher efficiency, there is still plenty of room for improvement in LED light efficiency.

They also talked about the lifetime of the LED lights. They said that the LEDs may never fail, but the rest of the electronics will probably not last as long as the LEDs. From my experience, LED lights have one large electrolytic capacitor and 1 or more smaller ‘lytics. Typical ‘lytic caps dry out and/or leak their electrolyte after several years, and then they cease to function. ‘lytics are inexpensive, but the LED light has to be opened up to replace them. If replacement was easy to do, the light could be repaired. But that would postpone buying a new LED light, so manufacturers would not allow it in the design.

Old radios and TVs had vacuum tubes in sockets so they could be replaced, but modern electronics has been designed to be so cheap that it is more economical to buy a new one than to repair an old one. That put a lot of radio and TV repair shops out of business. The automotive supply stores charge a Core Charge for auto parts such as alternators and starters. Such a core charge could be charged for LED light bulbs. More people would bring their LED lights in and exchange them for a new one and keep them from ending up in a trash can.

When one thinks about it, there is a strange backwardness to LED lights. The incandescent lights lasted only a thousand hours or so and had to have a socket so they could be replaced. This has had a complete reversal with LED lights. The LED may last a lifetime but the circuitry, which could’ve been included in the socket, lasts only 5 years or so. Perhaps the LEDs should have a socket for replaceable circuitry.

I should point out that some LED lights have simple circuits. Typically these are the least expensive ones. The LEDs are connected in series and the AC current is limited by a capacitor. This capacitor is supposed to be type X2 for connection across the AC line, but I’ve seen circuits without X2. Depending on the circuit some lights have rectifier diodes. But the circuit may not have electrolytic capacitors, which may allow the light to last longer. Also, simpler circuits have fewer parts to fail than more complex circuits. Thus, in other words, cheaper lights might last longer than more expensive lights.

Manufacturers have tried to extend the life of the bulb by adding metal heat sink fins to the base to keep the circuitry cool. It costs more, though. The conditions in the fixture, especially the temperature, are so variable that the LED light lifetimes are difficult to predict. The lifetime could be a year or less in a hot fixture with a LED light that runs hot, to the the 22 years, that are often claimed by the makers, in a cool fixture.

Why do fixtures run hot or cool? The temperature wasn’t important with incandescents. But it is with LEDs.

One other important thing about LEDs that I have been reading about lately. It’s called externalities. When a light uses energy, it creates such things as CO2 greenhouse gas, heat, and even mercury (burning coal releases mercury). The less electricity the light uses, the less externalities it causes. So saving electricity should be a primary goal of any light. The most efficient form of energy is the energy you don’t use.

Update – Just a thought. I have an old gooseneck table lamp that has a twist switch that was baked by years of heat from incandescent lamps until it will no longer twist. So I give the LED light in it a partial turn to turn it off. Unlike the hot incandescent light, the LED light stays cool enough to touch after being on for a long time. This makes it possible to use the light itself as the switch. Well I thought it was an idea bright enough to blog! No pun intended.

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