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2011-11-24 Watson´s Original LED Flashlight

Back in 2000 and 2001, Californians faced an electricity shortage crisis caused by market manipulations by companies the likes of Enron that stole tens of billions of dollars from Californians.  The electric companies implemented rolling scheduled blackouts to prevent unexpected outages. During that time, many people were afraid of being caught in a dark place such as an elevator without any source of light. I often carried a Mini Maglite but I wanted a flashlight (AKA torch) that didn´t have an unreliable incandescent bulb that would often burn out.

At that time, LED flashlights were not available. The individual white LEDs were available but were expensive, one example being Radio Shack which sold them for $4 to $5 apiece. I bought a few and experimented with them and came up with the design shown in the picture. But R-S LEDs were too expensive and had a bluish ring and a wide light pattern, which didn´t give a tight beam at a few feet.  I ordered a hundred NSPW500BS white LEDs from Nichia at about 2 dollars apiece, which saved a lot of money and gave a good beam of light at several feet.

I built several of these and they have become a handy tool around the house and in the car.  I used an Altoids tin, a three AA cell battery holder, one or two on/off switches and from 3 to 8 white LEDs in the end of the tin.  Each LED had its own 33 ohm 1/4 watt resistor to limit the current. One had two rows of 4 LEDs each, and a separate on/off switch for each row which gave a high-low light output.

I had not done any experimenting with a single AA cell and voltage boost circuit, which later came to be popularly known as a Joule Thief.
Later, LED flashlights became available, but at first were expensive or had low light output. Later, LED flashlights started appearing in stores, but they had some deficiencies. The most important one in my opinion is they use batteries that are expensive or hard to get.  For example, they often use three AAA cells which cost three times as much as a single AA cell, take up more space, but have about the same capacity.

The flashlight manufacturing companies seemed to be unwilling to add a simple circuit to their lights that would boost the AA cellś voltage to light a white LED.  Back then I started experimenting with a simple voltage boost circuit that later became known as the Joule Thief. More on this in my next blog.

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2011-11-20 Microphone Preamp and AGC

I checked out the AGC microphone on Techlib website, and I like the circuit. I have some LF353 opamps I got from Radio Snack a long time ago (I used to look in the blister packs and see both LF353s and TL072s), and I could use it in place of the TL072. One thing he said that makes me more than a little bit leery: ¨..the performance is fantastic.¨ That is not an objective statement. Every circuit has some compromises made to prevent costs going through the roof and to make it doable with reasonably priced parts. I thought about the circuit and found a few issues that I would deal with differently.

Both of the wires to the microphone are 6.8 volts above ground. I guess this is not a problem as long as the preamp is located where the microphone is and is hard wired to it. But if you want to put a jack on the input to allow changing to different mikes, then there is a problem, since you will have to deal with three wires, the two for the mike and the grounded shield over both. I would solve this by putting a DC blocking capacitor between the input and mic, and a resistor to allow bias current to reach the input. Also, the way the circuit is, it cannot be used with an electret condenser microphone. Another solution is to go professional and use a matching transformer on the input.

Being that this could be located near or at the microphone, it would be really handy if it could be powered from a battery. But a 12V battery is really expensive and hard to find. It would be much easier if it was a 9 volt battery. But reducing the supply voltage is a real problem. Once the supply passes through the diode on the input, it´s down to 8.3V. Then the voltage is so low that there will not be enough current through the 6.8V Zener to keep the voltage at 6.8V.  Not to mention that the 6.8V will be too close to the supply voltage, so the opamp will not be biased at its center point, which is normally half the supply voltage. Actually, most opamp bias circuits use a simple resistive voltage divider, which has two equal resistors. I´m not sure why he chose to use a Zener here when it would be easier and simpler to use two resistors. Changing to resistors lets the bias point stay at half the supply V as the battery voltage drops with use.

Another thing I like to do is, instead of using the series diode for reverse V protection, put a 1 amp rectifier across the input, cathode or banded end to positive. A backwards battery will cause the diode to conduct and drain the battery. But there is no V drop across a diode so the full battery voltage is used. This is especially important when the supply voltage is below 5V. Adding a 1/4 amp fuse before the diode will then cause the reversed battery to blow the fuse and leave you with a good battery but a fuse that needs replacing.

One other thing. If the output of this is to be plugged into the microphone input of an amp or recorder, then the output should have a resistive voltage divider to reduce the output level to the optimum for the preamp input. A simple High-Low level switch would take care of this.

I noticed that the diode on the supply input is not labeled. A 1N4002 rectifier should work, or even a 1N4148. But a 1N5817 Schottky diode would save a third of a volt or more.

Back to experimenting…

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2011-11-18 Supercharged Joule Thief

I received a a lot of comments on my Supercharged Joule Thief circuit, which gives an efficiency of up to twice that of a conventional JT (more about this in my blog where I switch between JTs and measure the light output). The SJT requires a few additional components, nothing out of the ordinary. Essentially, it rectifies some of the output to the LED, and uses this to supply the DC bias to the transistors base, through the feedback winding. I’ll post a schematic of it here.

Supercharged Joule Thief, High Efficiency

I have built many of these SJT circuits and verified that it really does work better than a conventional JT (see the link above). The two additional parts are the 1N4148 diode and a capacitor with a value in the 470 to 1000 pF range. The cost is about $0.10 US. The resistor value of 1.5k is the optimum point between efficiency and light output.  Experiment with this value to give the best choice of light output versus battery current.  Higher values can give lower but adequate light output and minimize the battery current.

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2011-11-20 Joule Thief Plus – New LED Circuit

My Joule Thief Plus or JT+ circuit uses an idea similar to that used in my Supercharged Joule Thief (SJT). My motivation for designing this circuit was the situation faced by the experimenter when s/he wants to drive a high power LED using a 1.5V supply. The conventional JT runs into a major brick wall when it is modified to put out more power. The transistor is pushed well beyond its limits when the supply current increases and approaches 1 amp or more. The DC resistances and impedances become so low that a fraction of an ohm resistance in the coil winding, for instance, becomes a major factor in limiting the performance and efficiency.

To get around this, I tried to use a power transistor such as the TIP41 for the high current JT. But the TIP41 has a very low current gain, around 30 to 50, which is less than a quarter of the typical PN2222A or similar small signal transistor. The first thing that many experimenters think of to solve low gain is to put a Darlington power transistor in the circuit. WHOA! let´s look more closely at Darlingtons.

Darlington Characteristics
The Darlington is really two transistors compound connected, so the emitter of the first one feeds the base of the second one. We can see that the base current passes through the first base to emitter junction, then passes through the second base to emitter junction. We have two junctions connected in series, each having a voltage drop of at least 0.6 volt, for a total of 1.2 volts. This is nearly as much as the 1.5V battery supply! This severely limits the performance of the Darlington. Also, because the base current for the second transistor is supplied from the collector, the collector must be at least .6V for the second transistor to conduct. Therefor the minimum collector voltage for a Darlington is .6V, which is more than 1/3 of the 1.5V battery supply voltage and thus severely reduces the efficiency of the circuit. These limitations make the Darlington a very, very poor choice for a Joule Thief.

But we still need additional current gain to compensate for the TIP41s low current. We can get this by compound connecting the two transistors, but feeding the collectors separately. The higher drive voltage we need will then be derived from a separate power supply (see the following explanation).

(not so) Brief Explanation of operation
Refer to Fig.1 in the schematic.  Like the SJT, this circuit takes some of the output and rectifies it to DC, which I call DC Boost. This is used to supply the base bias for the power transistor Q2. This bias current passes through Q1 which is switched by the feedback winding. At powerup, there is no DC Boost, so I added R2 which gives enough forward bias to  Q2 to get the circuit started up and running and generate the DC Boost.

As I mentioned, this higher DC supply voltage solves the problem of low voltage and consequently low current for driving the Q2 power transistor.  One theory that I’ve come up with is that if the power transistor requires a significant amount of current to drive its base, then this takes away from the current that would otherwise go to the LED. This diversion causes a loss of efficiency, and is something that should be minimized.  Changing from the TIP41 to the 2334 is a definite step in this direction.

The values of some parts, similar to the SJT, are sensitive because they work best at the switching frequency to boost the output. If the parts values are less or more, they are not optimum for that frequency. With some experimentation I found that I could optimize the values by putting a potentiometer or variable capacitor in temporarily and adjust it for the best performance.

Other components  The 1 ohm Rcled resistor is temporarily installed to monitor the LED current.  If I measure 100 millliivolts with the DMM, then there is 100 milliamps flowing through the LED.  Later I changed it to 1/2 ohm because the 1 ohm had too much voltage drop across it.  With 50 millivolts across the 0.5 ohm, and 100 milliamps through it, there is still a lot of v drop; it would be best if the drop stayed well below 50 mV.  A 0.1 ohm resistor would take care of that.

Transistor type  For the first two figures I used the 2SC2334 for the output transistor.  It drew over a half amp but the power supply only puts out a half amp, so the output voltage dropped.  I reset it for 1.2 volts output so the power supply wouldn’t current limit. I will have to add that the C2334 (that’s what it says on the case) is the highest of the three gain ranges, 100 to 200.  This is at least 5 times higher than the TIP41 and it really shows in the performance.

The circuit with the TIP41C gave much lower LED current and drew much less supply current. I believe that was because the voltage across the TIP41 is so low, it has even lower current gain than the 30 to 50 given in the datasheet. I believe this because it has a very difficult time delivering the high current at low voltage needed to put out several hundred milliamps to the LED.  When I pull the TIP41 out and put in the C2334, the LED current is much higher and performance is much better. To show the difference I connected the bases and collectors of both the TIP41 and C2334 to the contacts of a switch. I can select one or the other and compare the difference.  And there is a big, big difference. Once I saw how much better the C2334 performed, I will never, ever go back to the TIP41 for any Joule Thief.

In the first version (Fig.1) I used a 2N3904 for Q1.  These cannot handle high peak current, so I ‘upgraded’ to a PN2222A or BC337-25.  I did not notice any change with the C2334.  The TIP41 did not benefit from the change.

 

Back to experimenting…

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Hello world!

This is my replacement blog for watsonseblog.blogspot.com. After it was “removed because of spam” (I don’t spam) I lost four years and over 700 blogs. I will attempt to recreate some of my most important blogs, judged by the amount of comments I received. More to come as time permits. BTW, if you have a blogspot.com AKA blogger.com blog, make sure you export it or back it up or print it out. You may have yours removed at any time, without warning, for no reason, and you may never get it back.

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