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2014-09-07 Flasher Battery Dies Early Death

I connected a AA cell to a “Pigeons Nest” flasher more than a year ago, and used it as a trip hazard marker when it’s dark.  The cell was a Kirkland brand from Costco.  This had been running up until the end of August, even though I had noticed some ‘hair’ building up on one end from the juice leaking out.  The flasher stopped sometime in the first few days of September.

The cell may have been a used cell, I don’t remember.  It served its purpose and lasted much more than a year.  But the leakage that preceded its death leads me to the hypothesis that many if not most fully depleted cells from Joule Thiefs and other circuits meet their end by leaking and drying up inside.

Most name brand cells say they are guaranteed not to leak. I have carbon-zinc cells from the late 1980s that still have much of their charge left and have not yet leaked. That leads me to another hypothesis that the cells made today are lower in quality than the cells made a quarter century or more ago. Battery technology is not new; it has been around for more than a hundred years. I have old books that describe the way batteries were made back then. A common way to seal the cases was to pour a plug of hot bituminous tar into the case. This was fairly thick and did a very good job of keeping the juice in. Today’s technology is a thin sheet steel case with some plastic seal where the case meets the end contacts. I don’t think this is as good as tar for sealing. Some battery companies still offer guarantees but with restrictions, since some battery powered equipment can be very expensive. Most consumers don’t return the damaged flashlight because the shipping might cost more than the flashlight.

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2014-08-28 Waste AAA Cell Runs Germanium Joule Thief

I was out walking and saw three AAA cells in the street.  All three had been run over by cars, possibly several times;  most likely someone discarded them when their camera or whatever had said the batteries were too low.  I picked  them up and brought them home, and put them to good use at running my Joule Thiefs.IMG_20140828_083410S5

The mutilated cell can be seen in the photo.  It’s crushed, smashed and dented until it’s more oval than round.  But it’s still putting out power and has been running the Joule Thief since yesterday evening, about 12 hours and is still going strong.  Of course it helps that the Joule Thief uses a germanium transistor, which will run far below the 0.5 to 0.6 volts of the typical silicon transistor.   The typical germanium Joule Thief will run the cell down to less than 0.2 volts.  One issue I’ll have to deal with is that the seals of the case have probably been broken and the cell might leak its juice.  Not a good thing for whatever it’s laying on.

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2014-08-25 Mini Fluo Light And Another Use For Epoxy Resin

I found some soda straws that are thin and about the same color blue as the blue LEDs I got from goldmine-elec.com.  I got the idea of using a soda straw from Quantsuff at quantsuff.com.  He used two white LEDs in the ends of a short length of white translucent (semitransparent) soda straw to give the effect of a mini fluorescent lamp.  I thought it might look good with blue LEDs in a blue soda straw.
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I cut off a 1-3/4 inch (43mm) length and glued one LED in with clear nail polish.  I let it dry but when I handled it, the straw flexed and the LED came loose and was no longer straight.  I pulled it out and put more nail polish on it and put it back in the straw and let it dry.  Later I again had the same problem, so I decided I needed a stronger glue.

I bought some two part epoxy glue and mixed up a small amount of each part on a piece of paper with a toothpick.  I applied the epoxy to the inside of the straw and to the LED, and put the LED in the straw.  A few minutes later it had cooled off and hardened. No more loose LED; it was held in solid.

I’m going to connect the LED up to a power supply to see how it looks, and then if it’s okay I’ll epoxy another LED to the other end.

I picked up the paper with the spot of epoxy on it and noticed that the spot got lighter and darker as I moved it around.  This is the same effect that I saw when I put a drop of oil on a piece of paper to make a grease spot light comparison meter.  I brought the paper close to a light and put a flashlight behind it.  the spot became nearly invisible when the light levels were the same. Looks like I’ve found another use for clear epoxy resin: making a “grease spot” photometer.

I thought the single LED looked good so far, so I mixed up some more of the epoxy glue and filled the straw up to where there was just enough room for the second LED. After letting it cool and harden, I glued the second LED in with a small amount of epoxy. A few tens of minutes later I had the two LEDs connected to the power supply and it didn’t look too bad. But it didn’t look that good either – see the eery blue photo. The bubbles in the epoxy should not be there. I think the reason is that the epoxy is quick hardening and hardens before the bubbles have time to rise to the surface. Slower hardening epoxy might be better.

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2014-08-22 Colored LEDs For Decoration, Not Illumination

I received a bag of 200 blue LEDS in milk white packages from Goldmine-elec.  These put out a diffused blue light that has a wide beam pattern.

I’ve been thinking about colored LEDs, and I’ve come to the conclusion that the colored LEDs I use don’t need to be in a clear case and the light doesn’t need to be concentrated in a beam.  This is because almost all colored LEDs I use are for decoration, not for illumination.  White LEDs, on the other hand, are mostly used for illumination and should have a light beam.

These blue LEDs have a diffused light, which is good for decoration.  When I build a Joule Thief or Blue Blinky, the light doesn’t need to be directional, it should be easily seen from a wide area.  I connected a few of these up to a power supply. The diffused light from these LEDs is bright, and this seems to back up Goldmine’s claim that they are prime parts. The blue light is a shorter wavelength which gives a deeper, prettier blue.

I think they are worth the 8 cents apiece. If you don’t need a 100 bag, you can buy them in smaller quantities.

Update Aug 27 – I thought it would be a good idea to separate the 200 LEDs into a bag of 100 and 2 bags of 50. I counted out 100 and put them in another bag, then I started counting 50 for the second bag. I got part way through counting, and noticed the pile was getting very small. Soon I was done with the 50, and there were only 5 left in the pile. I had received only 155 LEDs, 45 short of the 200 I ordered. Goldmine shorted me! I’m going to email them a complaint, and see if I can get the rest of the LEDs.

I looked on their website and couldn’t find an email address for the above issue. Instead they have a toll-free 800 number in their FAQs. I called them and I was very surprised to get a real person on the line, not a menu of numbers to press. They took care of my problem and said they will ship them out today. I really like that kind of service.

I found out a few things that I didn’t know when I read the FAQs. They don’t ship to most countries because those countries have a “ROHS Directive” which is ‘Restrictions On Hazardous Substances’. I don’t understand why they call it restrictions when it is actually a BAN on substances such as lead and cadmium. Also, there is a minimum $50 Purchase when shipped to those few countries they can ship to. Perhaps they should sell stuff on eBay.

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2014-08-05 Joule Thief Design Ideas

Here is a guy’s photo collection of his Joule Thief artistic designs on Flickr.  He’s come up with some innovative results using various items of plastic, wire and glue to give some cool looking JT lights.  I think this T. Rex might also be used for a note holder or perhaps a third hand for soldering.  The flying saucer looks very realistic, too. There are many other cute decorative ideas to be seen.

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2014-08-04 Salt Light LED Conversion

I was asked to fix a Himalayan rock salt crystal light to make it brighter.  These lights are larger (and heavier) than a 1 liter bottle. The salt is kind of a rusty red due to iron dissolved in the salt. There are many examples of these if you search for Himalayan salt light. The salt has a hole about 1 inch diameter and 2 inches deep drilled into its base for the lamp.

The lights apparently come in at least two models.  One model comes with a 7 watt incandescent night light bulb, and the model I’m working on has a 5 mm LED with a 68 ohm resistor inside of a miniature screw-in lamp base.  This has a USB cable and connector to plug into a PC or mobile phone charger.

The first thing I did was cut off the USB connector and splice a 5V, 1/2 Amp AC adapter that I bought from goldmine-elec.com for a dollar.  I covered the splices with heat shrink tubing to make it look neat.  I left the full lengths of cable on, so it does look a bit odd having 5 feet of white cable and 5 feet of black cable.  But it’s a lot longer!

The LED and resistor leads were broken so I removed the 68 ohm resistor and replaced it with a 1 watt white star LED and a 10 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the base. The very thin wires in the black USB cable were each 1 ohm, so the total resistance in series with the LED is at least 12 ohms. For some odd reason, the red and yellow wires were connected to the lamp base instead of red and black. This should teach everyone a lesson: always check the wiring with your DMM on the ohms setting to make absolutely certain you have the right two wires.

With the 12 ohms, the LED current should be about 0.15 A, less than half of the LED’s maximum rating, but still much brighter than the single 5 mm white LED.

I screwed the LED assembly into the lamp base and plugged it in. Voila! I now have a much brighter night light. I did not put a switch inline because it’s going to be left on all night. Also, I add a plug switch to the outlet so that the adapter draws no current when it’s off.
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You can lick the light and taste the salt. What’s surprising is that dried salt deposits can be found in the highest mountains in the whole world. These were formed when lakes dried up millions of years ago. What’s more surprising is that someone came up with the idea to make a light by drilling a hole in a block of salt and putting a light in it. Don’t expect to find much of your salt light left if you leave it outside in the rain.

Update Aug 21 – They told me that the white LED puts out the right amount of light and makes a good night light. 🙂

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2014-08-02 Solar Panel From Goldmine

I bought a couple solar panels from goldmine-elec.com.  They are cat no G20110 and cost $14.00 each. They are 3.5W and 0.19 Amps at 18 volts.  I haven’t had a chance to measure and evaluate them yet.

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2014-08-01 Electricity Grid Stability

This article is an assessment by the coal mining industry, and as such, it is most likely heavily biased.  The reason I blog it is that it gives an idea of what the EPA is implementing and what the consequences might be.  What does this have to do with LEDs, you might ask.  Well, we went through such an electricity shortage crisis back in 2000 and 2001 and I had to build my own LED flashlights back then.  Today’s situation is different now that LED flashlights are available everywhere for very reasonable prices.  But still the increased demand could cause fluctuations in prices of many things, depending on the ability of industry to handle the  demands.

The article is here:
http://www.politico.com/sponsor-content/2014/07/epa-rule-puts-us-economy-electric-grid-at-risk/?ml=tb&ml=tb

Since the blackouts in the electric grid decades ago, technical improvements have been made to the grid to improve stability and reduce the chance of a major regional power outage.

Here in So. Calif., the city of Anaheim built a power plant which uses four natural gas powered turbine generators that can can be brought online in a matter of minutes. The plant puts out 250 megawatts, which is small by power plant standards but it contributes to the stability by being quickly available to make up for power outages and losses.

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2014-07-18 Fluorescent Lights Replaced With LEDs

I stopped by to see the guys at my ex- work. One guy told me they noticed the furniture had been moved around, and some metal shavings on the tables. He looked up and saw that the fluorescent tubes had plastic clamps holding them in with sheet metal screws. But he didn’t notice one thing: there LEDs inside the tubes!  I looked up and could see the round beads of light running down the center of each tube.  I tried to take a picture of the tube but it was too bright and didn’t show the beads of light.  But the light shining on the reflector has alternating light and dark spots.

The summer work hours are 4 day, 10 hours, with Fridays off.  Apparently the contractor has been coming in on Fridays and installing the LED tubes (we can’t call them fluorescent any more!). 

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2014-07-16 ITP A3 EOS 96 Lm Flashlight

I’ll get to the ITP flashlights/torches asap, but first a bit about the ThruNite flashlights.

The ThruNite Ti2 80 Lumen flashlights were only $11 apiece, so I ordered a few.  They use an on/off switching arrangement that I haven’t seen before.  Once the head is twisted to light at low brightness, tightening it another quarter turn increases the brightness to high. Normally you have to turn the light off for a fraction of a second and back on again to get it to a different light level. These must use a three position switch: off, low and high. The ThruNite uses a single AAA cell and comes in a tin case that looks like an Altoids tin with a plastic window in the lid.

I’m going to a lady’s retirement party tomorrow evening, so a few days ago I bought some flashlights for a present.  Amazon did the shipping but the seller was Aimkon Outdoors.  I bought 3 so I could get free shipping over 35 dollars.

Today I decided to order 3 more.  I got on Amazon and checked, and found that the price was slightly higher. I tried to order 3 more from Aimkon, but it said the seller had only 2 left, so that prevented me from getting free shipping.  Well, shipping was almost 1/4 of the price, so I decided to try eBay.  I got on eBay, and ordered; I got them for a bit cheaper than Amazon, and with free shipping.  Guess who the shipper was?  Aimkon!

That leads me to believe that Amazon is pulling a shenanigan: they are limiting the number the consumers can buy to force them to pay for shipping. Also they increased the price at different times. I’m not happy about this. I may continue to use Amazon for books, but I’m going to look for other sources before I buy most things from Amazon.

Also I bought a bunch of flashlights from Goldmine Electronics in Arizona. These use a single AA cell and I see a low power ‘straw hat’ LED in the head. The head and body are made of plastic and that’s the reason they can sell them for a dollar apiece. Most flashlights in this low price range use three AAA cells, which I believe is a waste of money. A cheap flashlight with a single AA cell is something that the consumer needs, because it’s going to save 1/2 or more of the money spent for batteries. Also, the cost is so low that when the battery leaks and corrodes the flashlight inside, the light can be thrown away, with minimal money lost.

While I was looking for the ITP 96 Lumen lights, other flashlights popped up on the display. The Olight company bought ITP, so now the EOS is also called Olight. They started shipping the EOS lights in a plastic gift case, and charge a few dollars more. The ones I bought come in regular cardboard packaging and are cheaper. I don’t see a need for a fancy case; the light is going to be carried around by itself and will never go back in the case again.

Update 2014 Aug 21 – I ordered a few more from a seller on eBay. Again, they were less expensive than Amazon. I also got free shipping.

On Amazon, I have seen some sellers selling items for $.01 and charging a very high price for shipping. The sellers seem to be gaming the system to gain advantage in ranking.

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