I received a request for a pictorial that shows the wiring of a Supercharged Joule Thief. I redrew the one here to show the wiring of the SJT.
2013-08-18 Supercharged Joule Thief Pictorial
I received a request for a pictorial that shows the wiring of a Supercharged Joule Thief. I redrew the one here to show the wiring of the SJT.
Hi Admin, thanks a lot for the pictorial. Can you also mark the wire A and wire B on the connection point to he circuit? And is this bifilar or quadrifilar and for quadrifilar, the connection points too. Sorry to trouble you. Thank you so much.
I think you should ignore the bifilar or quadrifilar, and wind it just as shown in the pictorial, except instead of three turns as shown, use an equal number of turns on each winding, and as many as you can get onto the core without difficulty. Seven or more turns should work okay. I’m not sure what you mean by wires A and B; I don’t see any A or B on the original pictorial or this pictorial. I was trying to keep the diagram simple so that as many as possible can understand it.
Correct me if I am wrong. what I mean wire A and wire B connection point is because you said 3 turn but obviously from the picture I can see 4 connection out of the toroid. First connect to 1N4148, second to 680pF capacitor, third to positive side of AA battery and last to Base of transistor. So there must be 2 pair of wire right? But which are their connection point of each wire?
When I say 3 turns, that is the number of times the wire goes around the core. Some newbies call them “wraps”, but technically each time the wire is wound around the core, it is 1 turn. I hope that ends any confusion about the number of windings.
Each wire, no matter how many times it goes through the hole in the core or around the core, has a start and end of the wire, and this wire is called a winding.
In a Joule Thief, there are two windings, one called a primary which is connected to the positive and the collector of the transistor. The other winding is called the feedback winding, and for a conventional JT is connected to the positive and one end of the 1000 ohm resistor. For the supercharged JT, it is connected as shown in the pictorial.
Which brings me to the pictorial. It is called a pictorial because it shows the actual circuit and the connections, drawn so as to make it possible for the viewer, no matter what language he or she is using – even Klingon – to duplicate the circuit.
The one part I should have drawn differently is the diode. Some viewers may not recognize the diode symbol. I should have drawn it like the resistor, with just a single black band at one end.
So if you follow the pictorial except put more turns on each winding, it should work. If the LED doesn’t light, one of the windings could be connected wrong. If so, then it should work if you disconnect the start and end of (only) one winding and swap the two ends. If the LED doesn’t light, then put the winding back as it was originally and try checking the other parts to see if they are correctly connected.
Hi Watson, I have a question.
I’ve made some home made batteries (Alum-Copper), which at the start will power a small LED through a Joule Thief. When they no longer power it, I hook them up together to double the Voltage and get the LED going again. After a day or so, the Overall Voltage is dropping to .650 V and STILL powering the LED – however if i plug in a single battery that i have made that produces .650 volts it can’t power the LED… I’ve tried testing the Ampage and it seems the same across the double and the single battery – so why will it light with the two batteries producing a total of .65V and not the single battery producing the same??
Thanks,
Joe
Since I don’t have the circuit or any measurements, I can only speculate and make guesstimates. According to you, the single battery is putting out 0.65V and the two batteries are also putting out 0.65V. My guess is that the single cell has a high internal resistance and each time the Joule Thief turns on, the voltage drops for a fraction of a second and it can’t draw enough current. Try putting a 10 microfarad capacitor across the battery and see what happens. If you let the battery charge up the capacitor and then connect the Joule Thief, and it lights up for a fraction of a second, then fades out, the Joule Thief is drawing more current than the battery can supply. The battery builds up byproducts of the chemical reaction on its plates, and this causes the loss of current and high resistance. Commercial batteries are designed to prevent or minimize this. Let us know what happens.
I believe that is more than likely the answer, thanks for that – i can no longer test this as I’ve packed up my things for a house move to Manchester.
I will be back to experimenting very shortly and no doubt become a regular on here – love the site and thanks for your quick response, I really appreciate it.
Next experiment will be the bedini motor with a single magnet acting as a ‘spinning top’ – here’s a link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZitkVFG6Qj8
Have you attempted? IF you can reproduce this ‘endless spinning top’ then perhaps you can help me do so too, struggling to get it working myself!
I’m not sure what result the Bedini stuff is supposed to give. I’ve read a lot of stuff about it including pseudo technical claims. In my opinion, there has not been a verifiable claim that it can produce more energy than it consumes.
No, there are plenty of claims about it giving more power than input but actually it is just very hard to measure as the output comes in peaks of high voltage and low ampage. Also is used to ‘recondition’ lead batteries which gives the impression of a lot of output when actually the battery has just been reconditioned.
Truth is it’s just fun and i want to make a toy out of a never ending spinning top – much like inception.
FYI:
http://www.energeticforum.com/john-bedini/4026-one-magnet-no-bearing-bedini-motor.html